First, for a living I produce and edit commercials for television and shoot wedding photography on the side. So I have some experience with cameras, lenses, and editing software.
We got this lens because we wanted a new camera to make commercials with. We wanted to shoot in HD (the 1080 kind, not the 720), but we didn't want a $30,000 rig - no way I could convince the big boss to do that since making commercials is a secondary, even tertiary, function of the company I work for.
For a cinematic look (the 1.6x crop factor helps with depth of field) we chose the 7D. For what we wanted, and expected, and what we got, I rate the camera 5 stars. But that's because I also know the limitations of the camera. You won't take this camera and treat it like it's a prosumer or professional HD videocamera that you would take if you where the videographer for COPS. You won't take this to capture video on a running, fast-paced, nighttime fugitive hunt. In low light settings, or settings where you can't control the light, you will get motion blur. In high lighted areas, if you don't have a rig setup with an eye piece half the time you won't be able to see the screen with enough clarity to know if you're subject is in focus or not (if you're using a very slim depth of field, like on a f2.8 or faster lens).
Obviously, for about the same price, we could have gotten a prosumer or low, low professional grade HD videocamera that would have had better autofocus, less motion blur on action, etc. But the trade off on that is lower low-light capacity for shooting, and lower contrast levels.
I recommend this camera if you want to take HD video and make a basket of apples look sexy. If said apples grew legs, started running, and you had to run with them and capture everything on video, I'm not sure of this would be the solution for you - even with a steadycam. But maybe.
We're still working the kinks out, but we love it so far.
2010-04-19 - 12:19:18
I had the 40d,its a great entry dlsr. The 7d is way better in every way-better iso value-better color balance,sharp pics with 70-200L is.I dont care about the movie option,but it works great too-buy this camera now.
2010-05-17 - 07:21:31
Peet van den Berg
Upgraded fom 40d and I am over the moon with this camera. Felt at home in the menus from the start and the only feature that took some getting used to was the AF settings. My keeper rate for BIF's has gone through the roof and it performed absolutely marvelous at the ballet rehearsals in theatre lighting at high ISO. Kept my 40d and I can see the improvement in IQ when comparing pics taken at ballet. Hooked up f2.8 70-200 and 100 -400 L lenses - wonderfull results. The 7D is a winner in my book!
2010-05-31 - 08:44:49
The 7D is an upgrade in a line of Canon EOS digital cameras starting with the 20D. Upon upgrading my 20D for the 40D was a vast improvement. Upgrading my 40D for my new 7D is another vast improvement as well. I did skip the 50D as I did not like all the issues it faces especially when reviews came in stating the 40D was a far superior model. I also decided to purchase the 7D over the 5D MarkII. I love the performance of my new camera and will keep it for years to come. Superior picture quality and high pixel count allows printing of 8X10 - 13X19 etc....
2012-07-20 - 01:52:23
, shooting hi-key with the 5d2, you need to rlleay nail your exposure or you might blow your highlights, looks like the nikon is a bit more tolerant in this respect.I'd say that the nikon does pretty well in the studio with its larger pixels, especially considering it's designed to be a sports/action camera and not a studio beast.Also, the nikon lens does not seem to flare when you shoot into a big light source like the pics above. That's also an important point.About the nikon lens : it's good, but the rubber on the zoom dial starts to peel off. I don't know if that's a common issue with nikon lenses that cost over a grand, or if my rented lens has been abused by previous renters.
It’s very nearly impracticable to manually fire a flash to coincide with critical a shutter button. Flash duration is so fleeting, you’ll rarely get the timing aptly.If you trigger the flash optically (from the flash on the digital camera), then if the flash has red-eye reduction or TTL metering (any or both highly liable in a compact camera) it fires pre-flashes. What happens is that your ‘slave’ (open-air) flash fires off on the pre-flashes and doesn’t have time to re-payment in time for the main flash.To trigger a flash you need to disable the red-eye & place the flash into blue-collar mode, so it doesn’t fire metering (TTL) pre-flashes – you may not be able to do this on your camera. The common way to trigger flashes on DSLR’s is to use a touchtone phone logic trigger on the hotshoe or to use an optical logic.Incidentally, compact camera’s DON’T have leaf shutters, they sync at any speed in view of the fact that the ‘shutter’ is electronic – it’s the feeler life turned on/off.It is doable to fire your flash manually during a long exposure (ie a few seconds or longer) but I am assuming this is not what you want to do. 0Was this answer helpful?
, shooting hi-key with the 5d2, you need to really nail your exposure or you might blow your highlights, looks like the nikon is a bit more tolerant in this respect.I’d say that the nikon does pretty well in the studio with its larger pixels, especially considering it’s designed to be a sports/action camera and not a studio beast.Also, the nikon lens does not seem to flare when you shoot into a big light source like the pics above. That’s also an important point.About the nikon lens : it’s good, but the rubber on the zoom dial starts to peel off. I don’t know if that’s a common issue with nikon lenses that cost over a grand, or if my rented lens has been abused by previous renters.
When you say basic digital camera I am assuming its a top and shoot.a top and shoot does a pre-flash any to lower red eye or to measuring device ( for automatic settings)to use an open-air flash you need to set the camera’s flash in blue-collar mode such that it fires only onceand set the open-air flash to optical slave mode so that it sees a flash go and fires at the same time.most DSLR’s have a sync speed of 1/250 i.e. shutter speed has to be slower than 1/250th of a secondbut the top and shoot camera’s have a leaf shutter and are able to sync quicker than that.what you need to do is find that blue-collar flash mode 0Was this answer helpful?
Jessica - I absolutely love it .and I'm so glad to fnilaly see you and Michelle on the other end of a camera! All work no play right! And, I can't get over how grown up Jackson looks! He changed over night!